Paris Men's Fashion Week Day 1: Icosae, Dries Van Noten, Julius SS17 / by Alexandra Fox

Well this is several days late, but it's been a crazy weekend!

Thursday kicked off my men's fashion week with the Icosae SS17. Icosae is a luxury men's tailoring brand, so not really my style. But I was pleasantly surprised by the show and the deconstruction of traditional menswear into looser and more alternative pieces. It was my first Paris Fashion Week show, and I was about to find out just how late things get started...

After what seemed like forever, the runway began. The setup was good, they went for an "outdoors" feel with the grass and woodland soundtrack. 

I also learned how quickly people file out of these things. I guess I expected folks to stick around and mingle after, but I suppose everyone is pretty busy and running around during fashion week! I did, however, manage to snag two men who were working the Givenchy showroom, and get in touch with someone for an invitation for the following day! Note to self: always ask.

My next stop was Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. I didn't have an invite to this one but managed to get in at the last second after some well-placed compliments and sympathy stares. It was a totally different feel from Icosae - much more polished and dark whereas Icosae had been light and airy. 

Still, Van Noten featured a lot of floral prints and belted trenchcoats as well. Also heavy on patchwork and fringe detailing in the collection. 

The last show for the day was Julius: a Japanese line that emphasizes art, music, and sound. The show, "Knives", featured an (impassioned) musical performance from Kerridge/ the Autumns. Taking place in Paris's 11e La Generale - an artist cooperative where the building and workspaces are the collective property of the artists' association - the show definitely had a more experiential- focused vibe. 

The first twenty minutes or so were, essentially, mingling in the space and watching the performance. Then the runway was opened up through the crowd, and the show began. It was a cool presentation concept, but in reality the set-up did not pan out well. It was difficult to see through the crowd of people on either side, and several minutes were spent by Julius reps pulling up important buyers to the front. 

Regardless, Julius was my favorite collection of the day, though not the most enjoyable show. There was a lot of monochrome layering and oversize pockets. The Paris collection was pretty consistent with the brand's street style and "London grunge" feel. More photos from Julius SS17 here.

Running around Paris for the three shows was fairly exhausting, and I was quite ready to retire by the end of Julius. I did, however, take the train up to Paris Nord to see Am- before calling it a night. Overall, not a bad start to Fashion Week and definitely gave me a lot to think about as far as how this whole thing works!


- A